You never quite know what you will find when you enter a new country. Will the people speak English? Will they be nice? How will I get the new currency as fast as possible? How do I get from point A to point B? As I emerged from the airport in Phnom Penh, Cambodia I was immediately at ease...and in love!
What I found was warm, smiling faces. The people speak a better version of English than I had found in Thailand. And they actually prefer that we use dollars instead of the Cambodian Riel. As I road in the taxi to the hostel (my first big city experience in Southeast Asia) my eye spotted more motos then cars, no discernibly agreed upon traffic directions, hundreds of smiling faces and a city that could use a face lift.
After settling into the Top Banana hotel we blessed our passports and sent them off with the guy from the hotel to have him get our visas for Vietnam. This is by far the easiest way to get this process taken care of but it is not without hesitation that we entrusted this stranger with our prized possession. I will end the anticipation, everything worked out perfect!
In the evening I took my first tuk-tuk ride around the city with Jill. A tuk-tuk is a motorcycle with a sort of carriage behind it. It is all open air this time of year so you can feel the night air in your face. It was one of those truly wonder struck moments you are lucky to have when traveling in foreign countries. We asked the driver to just drive us around to the hot spots. Mind you this is 7pm on a Tuesday night but it was as if nobody had a thing to do the next day because there were hundreds of people out and about enjoying themselves, their families and celebrating the coming Cambodian New Year!! We drove along the river, passing the Royal Palace all aglow in it's nightlights. We passed a major commercial area alive with vendors. What struck me most is how curious the locals were about us. Everyone kept looking into the tuk-tuk as they passed us to have a look. Always with a smile of course!! Unlike what I found in southern Thailand the locals have a seemingly genuine interest in who I am, where I am from and practicing their English. I was in awe of my new surroundings. I knew right away that this was a country that was going to make a lasting impression.
Needless to say, I could not be happier to be in Cambodia!
Tuesday, April 10, 2007
Sunday, April 8, 2007
Ko Phangan & Ko Tao, Thailand
From the beautiful island of Ko Lanta on the Andaman Sea side of Thailand we journeyed across the Thai peninsula where we boarded a 3 hour ferry to an island on the Gulf of Thailand. Once again the journey was just as much fun as the destination.
As we haggled the price of the ferry in a tour agency we met up with 3 guys...an Italian, a Malaysian and an American from Boston. All of us were heading to the island of Ko Phangan for the worldwide phenomenon known as the full moon party. This party begins at sunset, lasting through the sunrise the following day as well as into the next afternoon. The ferry to Ko Phangan would get us in at around 6pm so we would have just enough time to find a hotel, shower and get the party started. It was agreed that we would just begin the party on the ferry with (horrible) Malaysian rum! Ah, the beginning of the end.
The party takes place on a beach that faces east, "Sunrise Beach". There were thousands upon thousands of party goers with no less than 20 DJ's from around the world playing techno music. I wouldn't say that this is my favorite scene but we had an amazingly fun time. Drinks are served in plastic buckets with about 10 straws. Our drink of choice for the evening was Red Bull and vodka. Hey, I am 31 years old now. Without the infusion of mass amounts of caffeine there would be no way I would make it to sunrise!! We walked up and down the beach, danced, drank, went for a swim at sunrise and generally laughed all night long. Good times. As the sun rose we hit the sack but we were certainly in the minority. This is one mental party!
From Ko Pgangan we hopped a ferry to the island of Ko Tao. This was more of a rest and relaxation island. We decided to go upscale a bit because it was Jill's 30th birthday!!! It was a nice break from the low budget backpacker hotels we had been staying. There was a pool that looked out into the gulf so we ended up wasting many many hours just hanging in the pool. A wonderful week. We were joined by a few friends from the US which was great. It's always nice to make new bonds withe people that you will see again back home.
It was sad to say goodbye to the guys as well as the lovely beaches of Thailand. That being said our next stop is Cambodia. Does the excitement ever end?
As we haggled the price of the ferry in a tour agency we met up with 3 guys...an Italian, a Malaysian and an American from Boston. All of us were heading to the island of Ko Phangan for the worldwide phenomenon known as the full moon party. This party begins at sunset, lasting through the sunrise the following day as well as into the next afternoon. The ferry to Ko Phangan would get us in at around 6pm so we would have just enough time to find a hotel, shower and get the party started. It was agreed that we would just begin the party on the ferry with (horrible) Malaysian rum! Ah, the beginning of the end.
The party takes place on a beach that faces east, "Sunrise Beach". There were thousands upon thousands of party goers with no less than 20 DJ's from around the world playing techno music. I wouldn't say that this is my favorite scene but we had an amazingly fun time. Drinks are served in plastic buckets with about 10 straws. Our drink of choice for the evening was Red Bull and vodka. Hey, I am 31 years old now. Without the infusion of mass amounts of caffeine there would be no way I would make it to sunrise!! We walked up and down the beach, danced, drank, went for a swim at sunrise and generally laughed all night long. Good times. As the sun rose we hit the sack but we were certainly in the minority. This is one mental party!
From Ko Pgangan we hopped a ferry to the island of Ko Tao. This was more of a rest and relaxation island. We decided to go upscale a bit because it was Jill's 30th birthday!!! It was a nice break from the low budget backpacker hotels we had been staying. There was a pool that looked out into the gulf so we ended up wasting many many hours just hanging in the pool. A wonderful week. We were joined by a few friends from the US which was great. It's always nice to make new bonds withe people that you will see again back home.
It was sad to say goodbye to the guys as well as the lovely beaches of Thailand. That being said our next stop is Cambodia. Does the excitement ever end?
Sunday, April 1, 2007
Khlong Nin beach, Koh Lanta
Between all the traveling, jet lag and attack of insects on Ton Sai beach we needed a nice relaxing spot. After some deliberation Jill took me to a place that she had been on her last trip to Thailand...Koh Lanta.
Koh Lanta is an island in southern Thailand on the Andaman Sea. There are several white sand beaches that flank the western shore, each separated by a rocky outcropping. It is these breaks that create distinctive beach cultures on each. The third beach down, about a 20min motorbike ride from the main town, is Khlong Nin. This place is heaven with a laid back traveler vibe! It is even more chilled out right now because the high season has just ended.
I have to admit I was not feeling it the first couple nights. We learned real quick the difference between serious budget travel and just budget travel. The first 2 nights we stayed in a room that cost each of us 4USD per night. With this we got a fan, a bathroom with no flush (just fill the bucket and flush it yourself!), the intoxicating smell of sewer and a mattress where the coils were basically coming through the top. But with a few beers, Jill's thermarest, an amazing beach and the bathroom door closed we managed.
Ahhhh but then we discovered Lanta White Rocks just next door. We were able to bargain so we kept our cost under 10USD per person. The difference was night & day. Things were looking a lot more like paradise. Days here begin with breakfast on the beach. There is nothing like eating a breakfast of fruit, eggs and a banana lassi (fruit and yogurt shake) with your feet in the sand. After breakfast the day is really up in the air! Maybe I will read my book in the hammock or write in my journal. Then again perhaps I will feel like laying out, swimming or napping. The last couple days we rode a motorbike around the island. The possibilities are endless :o)
As for the nightlife. We have found that the Tomahawk Bar at Nice Beach Resort across from our bungalow is a one-stop shop. Tomahawk bar is right on the beach so we have watched the sunset from their outdoor deck that overlooks the water every night. It has an outdoor restaurant with amazing Thai and Indian food. Not to mention they have plenty of chill space to enjoy evening beers. We tend to get there around 6 and not leave all night. Ummm, why would you?
So there you have it, my last week in a nutshell. I have met some great people here that I will miss but I must move on tomorrow. Tomorrow we will leave the chill Koh Lanta vibe for absolute mayhem for one night...the full moon party on Koh Pnang. Poor me, I have to island hop. :o)
Koh Lanta is an island in southern Thailand on the Andaman Sea. There are several white sand beaches that flank the western shore, each separated by a rocky outcropping. It is these breaks that create distinctive beach cultures on each. The third beach down, about a 20min motorbike ride from the main town, is Khlong Nin. This place is heaven with a laid back traveler vibe! It is even more chilled out right now because the high season has just ended.
I have to admit I was not feeling it the first couple nights. We learned real quick the difference between serious budget travel and just budget travel. The first 2 nights we stayed in a room that cost each of us 4USD per night. With this we got a fan, a bathroom with no flush (just fill the bucket and flush it yourself!), the intoxicating smell of sewer and a mattress where the coils were basically coming through the top. But with a few beers, Jill's thermarest, an amazing beach and the bathroom door closed we managed.
Ahhhh but then we discovered Lanta White Rocks just next door. We were able to bargain so we kept our cost under 10USD per person. The difference was night & day. Things were looking a lot more like paradise. Days here begin with breakfast on the beach. There is nothing like eating a breakfast of fruit, eggs and a banana lassi (fruit and yogurt shake) with your feet in the sand. After breakfast the day is really up in the air! Maybe I will read my book in the hammock or write in my journal. Then again perhaps I will feel like laying out, swimming or napping. The last couple days we rode a motorbike around the island. The possibilities are endless :o)
As for the nightlife. We have found that the Tomahawk Bar at Nice Beach Resort across from our bungalow is a one-stop shop. Tomahawk bar is right on the beach so we have watched the sunset from their outdoor deck that overlooks the water every night. It has an outdoor restaurant with amazing Thai and Indian food. Not to mention they have plenty of chill space to enjoy evening beers. We tend to get there around 6 and not leave all night. Ummm, why would you?
So there you have it, my last week in a nutshell. I have met some great people here that I will miss but I must move on tomorrow. Tomorrow we will leave the chill Koh Lanta vibe for absolute mayhem for one night...the full moon party on Koh Pnang. Poor me, I have to island hop. :o)
Friday, March 30, 2007
Muay Thai (boxing)
The equivalent in Thailand to watching a baseball game in the States is attending a Muay Thai boxing night. Muay Thai is the national pastime of Thailand. There is a relatively famous Muay Thai boxing gym on Koh Lanta with fighting every Friday night.
First thing we did When we arrived at the stadium was eat from the food stalls outside. I had yummy boiled corn on the cobb and some meat that is served on a stick. It was a near cousin to chicken satay! All that washed down with a Singha (Thai beer) for $1.
As we walked into the stadium we were escorted to what we called the "farang pen". This was a ringside section with all white people. It was pretty funny. All the Thais gathered around the pen to watch the matches and looked/smiled at us when they caught our eye. It was being in a zoo.
Each match begins with ceremony. Each fighter begins in their corner with their head resting on the cushion in prayer. They then walk to each of the other posts holding the top rope and resting in prayer at each corner. They then do small dances in prayer around the ring. Finally they get checked by the official for their equipment (a.k.a cup). The fighting then begins. They have gloves on but no other protection. Everything is legal. I am still not sure exactly how they score but I do know the higher the kick the more points. The most points is an uninterrupted kick to the opponents head. These guys are crazy. Strong, agile, lean, quick, powerful. The fighters go 5 rounds with the winner winning unceremoniously in a brief hand raising by the judge. The fighters hug and leave the ring. For how nasty the fighting is the fighters are quite peaceful and non boastful. A nice change from sports in the west.
First thing we did When we arrived at the stadium was eat from the food stalls outside. I had yummy boiled corn on the cobb and some meat that is served on a stick. It was a near cousin to chicken satay! All that washed down with a Singha (Thai beer) for $1.
As we walked into the stadium we were escorted to what we called the "farang pen". This was a ringside section with all white people. It was pretty funny. All the Thais gathered around the pen to watch the matches and looked/smiled at us when they caught our eye. It was being in a zoo.
Each match begins with ceremony. Each fighter begins in their corner with their head resting on the cushion in prayer. They then walk to each of the other posts holding the top rope and resting in prayer at each corner. They then do small dances in prayer around the ring. Finally they get checked by the official for their equipment (a.k.a cup). The fighting then begins. They have gloves on but no other protection. Everything is legal. I am still not sure exactly how they score but I do know the higher the kick the more points. The most points is an uninterrupted kick to the opponents head. These guys are crazy. Strong, agile, lean, quick, powerful. The fighters go 5 rounds with the winner winning unceremoniously in a brief hand raising by the judge. The fighters hug and leave the ring. For how nasty the fighting is the fighters are quite peaceful and non boastful. A nice change from sports in the west.
Friday, March 23, 2007
First Impressions
The first thing I saw as I walked off the plane in Thailand was a sign as long as the walkway between the plane and the terminal that declared "Long live the King". In Thailand it is punishable by law to make any defamatory remarks against the King. Not that these people would anyway. It seems that have a genuine love affair with their King. Every Monday is "King Day". All over Thailand you will see people in the yellow King shirts with the royal emblem on the breast pocket. A far cry from the shirts in the states adorning our leader with sentiments like "President poo-poo head" or "Save the world, kill yourself".
Another thing that stood out from the get go was the Buddhist iconography. Whether one of it's many images are depicted on murals, art, souvenirs or you see an actual Buddhist Monk, you know you are someplace entirely different than home. The predominate religion (90%) of Thailand is Buddhism. One of the main teachings of Buddhism is to walk the middle road. The best place to be is not too poor or too rich; too fat or too thin; have too much or too little. What you get is a feeling of happiness, generosity and peace! Everyone here has been more than helpful. People are always smiling. It is a wonderful culture to explore.
Now, on to a rather funny first impressions. Our first spot was a beach town. I thought it was so nice how they put a small hose with a sprayer in the bathroom to wash your feet. I love clean feet! Hmmm, then at the next place we stayed another sprayer for your feet. Yes, it finally clicked that the toiler paper in the room was really a western amenity. The Thais don't actually use it! It was a funny moment when I came out to tell Jill what I had discovered. Of course it was not news to her! Duh.
Another thing that stood out from the get go was the Buddhist iconography. Whether one of it's many images are depicted on murals, art, souvenirs or you see an actual Buddhist Monk, you know you are someplace entirely different than home. The predominate religion (90%) of Thailand is Buddhism. One of the main teachings of Buddhism is to walk the middle road. The best place to be is not too poor or too rich; too fat or too thin; have too much or too little. What you get is a feeling of happiness, generosity and peace! Everyone here has been more than helpful. People are always smiling. It is a wonderful culture to explore.
Now, on to a rather funny first impressions. Our first spot was a beach town. I thought it was so nice how they put a small hose with a sprayer in the bathroom to wash your feet. I love clean feet! Hmmm, then at the next place we stayed another sprayer for your feet. Yes, it finally clicked that the toiler paper in the room was really a western amenity. The Thais don't actually use it! It was a funny moment when I came out to tell Jill what I had discovered. Of course it was not news to her! Duh.
Thursday, March 22, 2007
It's All About the Journey
Getting to Thailand was as much an adventure as being in Thailand. In all I logged 29 hours, 3 plane flights, a taxi and a longtail boat, stopping in 5 cities on my journey from San Francisco to Ton Sai, Thailand. I knew it was far but geez!
The flight from San Francisco to Hong Kong was 14+ hours. I slept most of the way since the flight left at 1am. With nobody sitting next to me it was actually very comfy. After a 2.5hr layover in Hong Kong it was another 3hrs to Bangkok. Finally in Thailand!!! The airport is fairly new with many places to eat. Now, I am used to the American version of Thai food but most of the stuff I saw along the way of snacks were not so familiar. Just to be on the safe side I enjoyed a raspberry, blueberry, banana shake. Here in the airport is where I met my good friend Jill. We caught up during the 5 hr layover we had about her recent trip to Africa. This is certainly on my list of places to travel. The next flight was about 1.5hrs to Krabi. Krabi is on the Andaman Sea side of the Thai peninsula. Our final destination is a small beach town near to Krabi so we hopped in a taxi to Ao Nang. Ao Nang is the beach town just next to where we want to go so we had to wait for a longtail boat to get us the last 20mins.
Funny thing about catching a longtail boat at this time of the night is that is LOW tide. To get to the boat you have to walk through about 50ft of wet sand and 1.5m of water. Yeah, we had all our bags on us or in our hands with water up to our skivvies. Good times! Then we had a rather mystical 20min boat ride to Ton Sai. It was dark out but the moon shed just enough light to drench the limestone massifs in enough shadow that we could get a sense of enormity without the detail as we rode directly underneath. I could not wait for daylight. Of course it was still low tide in the neighboring bay so we were let out this time on to jagged rocks. Sort of a massage, sort of pins and needles. You just have to laugh though...we both laughed hard :o)
FINALLY we arrived in Ton Sai!! Pretty much all we could do was rinse off, eat and have a wonderful beer before sleeping for 10hrs. In this instance I would say it was just as much about the destination :o)
The flight from San Francisco to Hong Kong was 14+ hours. I slept most of the way since the flight left at 1am. With nobody sitting next to me it was actually very comfy. After a 2.5hr layover in Hong Kong it was another 3hrs to Bangkok. Finally in Thailand!!! The airport is fairly new with many places to eat. Now, I am used to the American version of Thai food but most of the stuff I saw along the way of snacks were not so familiar. Just to be on the safe side I enjoyed a raspberry, blueberry, banana shake. Here in the airport is where I met my good friend Jill. We caught up during the 5 hr layover we had about her recent trip to Africa. This is certainly on my list of places to travel. The next flight was about 1.5hrs to Krabi. Krabi is on the Andaman Sea side of the Thai peninsula. Our final destination is a small beach town near to Krabi so we hopped in a taxi to Ao Nang. Ao Nang is the beach town just next to where we want to go so we had to wait for a longtail boat to get us the last 20mins.
Funny thing about catching a longtail boat at this time of the night is that is LOW tide. To get to the boat you have to walk through about 50ft of wet sand and 1.5m of water. Yeah, we had all our bags on us or in our hands with water up to our skivvies. Good times! Then we had a rather mystical 20min boat ride to Ton Sai. It was dark out but the moon shed just enough light to drench the limestone massifs in enough shadow that we could get a sense of enormity without the detail as we rode directly underneath. I could not wait for daylight. Of course it was still low tide in the neighboring bay so we were let out this time on to jagged rocks. Sort of a massage, sort of pins and needles. You just have to laugh though...we both laughed hard :o)
FINALLY we arrived in Ton Sai!! Pretty much all we could do was rinse off, eat and have a wonderful beer before sleeping for 10hrs. In this instance I would say it was just as much about the destination :o)
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